Florist calendar for November
In November, a premonition of the ending of the garden season fills hearts with sadness. But while all gardeners are actively planning future plantings and dreaming of a spring that is not yet near, but such a welcome one, there are more than enough work on the site. This month you won’t have to rest: preparing the soil and plants for wintering, winter crops, laying compost and many other chores will take a lot of time and energy. And the most important thing in November is not to lose sight of anything. Indeed, ornamental plants need special care in anticipation of winter. How severe winter will affect your landings depends on its quality and scrupulousness.
Caring for perennials and bulbs
Fresh plantings of bulbs, if you have not used special baskets to protect against mice and other rodents, in November it is better to additionally protect. Set up special traps or lay out the sent food. And if it snows, re-position the bait on the ground, masking it with an adjacent cover on top.
New perennial plants planted in autumn also need additional protection: follow the requirements of each particular species, but at least protect the plants with a layer of mulch from compost or peat, which will help plants better tolerate temperature changes and create more stable conditions.
Perennials on flower beds that you do not want to leave for decorating the winter garden, which do not have spectacular inflorescences or fruits, in November cut to a height of 10-15 cm.
Extra care on lawns and rock gardens
With the advent of the first frost, you need to contact the lawns as little as possible and try not to walk on them at all. Do not step on frozen grass and try to minimize trampling even on warm days. Before the first snow falls, again inspect the lawns and, where necessary, clean them again by removing debris, moss colonies, and plant debris.
In rocky kindergartens - rockeries and on alpine hills - plants react poorly to dampness. Protect the most capricious species and endemic in this place for the winter with caps that will not allow moisture to accumulate. Sensitive to temperature extremes or not too frost-resistant plants, it is precisely in November that you need to cover it with spruce branches or dry foliage, and start brushing off snow regularly from shrubs and mini-tree trees.
Winter crops of pilots and not only
A considerable number of annual plants prefer sowing in the winter. Damascus nigella, Iberis, marine lobularia, adonis summer, gypsophila, godetia, blue cornflower, calendula, left-handed, matthiola, eschscholzia, lavater, poppy seed, smolevka and many other cultures need to be sown as late as possible. It is carried out after the first frost, when the soil is already frozen in the upper layer. And most often, November is called the optimal time for sowing such plants.
Traditionally, crops are carried out in the first decade of the month, but it is better to focus on the weather and night temperatures. Prepare a place for sowing in advance, improve the soil, and as soon as the soil freezes, sprinkle the seeds on deep grooves and fill it with soil. Having covered them from above with a peat layer from 2 cm thick, you can be sure that in the spring friendly shoots will be waiting for you.
Also, perennial sowing is also preferred by some perennials, for example, delphinium, panicled phlox, feverfew, aquilegia.
Despite the fact that November is considered not a very favorable month for planting, nevertheless this month, if necessary, planting of perennial plants can also be carried out:
- digging to save late spring seedlings of trees and shrubs by spring;
- the landing of lilies of the valley who love late landing and so adapt better to new places.
Extra protection for trees and shrubs
Freshly planted ornamental tree and shrubs that can attract hares and other animals no less than fruit crops, must be protected for the winter. Lapnik, kraft paper, ruberoid, burlap, non-woven materials - any material available to you for the "wrapper" is quite suitable. When installing protection for trunks, do not forget to bury them in the ground.
Also take care of all the standard plants: in November it is necessary not only to wrap the trunks, but also to bend the plants to the soil and reliably protect them from freezing.
Inspect all shrubs and trees that are decorative for traces of frost pits - ruptures of the bark that appear as a result of a sharp temperature difference between air and sunlight. At the first sign of damage, treat them with a special paste or garden varnish, but better take preventative measures.
It is better to protect plants from frost bogs as well as fruit plants - by whitening paint with sunscreen or a solution of lime, wrapping the trunks with paper or fabric. Conifers, in which the risk of sunburn is very high not only in the spring, but also in November, it is better to protect the wrapper from the bright sun. This is especially important for trimmed, molded plants, playing the role of a soloist and located in sunny places.
Young shrubs and trees planted in the fall in flower beds, as well as plants that need a protective layer of mulch (for example, decorative cherries, apple trees) because of the surface of the root system for the winter, should be provided with appropriate shelter in November. Mulch the trunks of plants with peat or compost, creating a layer with a thickness of at least 5-7 cm.
As soon as snow falls, especially if the temperature does not drop and it will accumulate wet flakes on plants, do not be too lazy to shake it off ornamental shrubs and trees. Heavy wet snow at the beginning of winter is very dangerous for all purely decorative crops, especially plants with high branching.
In November, all roses need special attention: the final stage of preparing the royal shrubs for wintering begins. Roses this month need:
- cut according to the type of plant and type of flowering, and for climbing roses - remove shoots from supports;
- spud with ordinary dry soil to protect the base of bushes and shoots from frost;
- fill the bushes with dry leaves with a layer of about 20 cm;
- install around the frame, on which it is possible to wrap insulation, non-woven material or film, leaving slots for air access until the temperature drops below -10 degrees.
It is very important to carry out all the work not simultaneously, but to give the plants time to adapt - at least a few days before each next procedure. Traditional sheltering technologies can be replaced by alternative methods, and for frost-resistant old bushes you can completely limit yourself to hilling and sheltering leaves without a full air-dry shelter.
Both the clematis and the honeysuckle need a spud of the base of the bushes and mulching with dry foliage. It is better to remove their shoots from the supports and lay them on the ground. Varietal clematis cover more securely - in accordance with the recommendations for each plant.
Cleaning leaves and empty areas
In November, all work on cleaning flower beds, perennials and other decorative compositions of excess foliage, carrion, residues after trimming trees, shrubs and perennials must be completed. And for those plants that need to mulch leaves, in place of natural debris you need to lay high-quality dry foliage. It is possible to remove leaves from paths and platforms throughout the whole month, but their harvesting from the soil must be completed before the first snow falls.
All flower beds from summers and other empty areas also need cleaning and tidying. On the soil intended for planting next year, do not allow accumulation of debris and foliage, including the remnants of trimmed plants. And in the areas where the summers grew, in November, remove all plant debris.
Do not forget about composting
November is the month when even the most persistent deciduous crops dump their luxurious decoration. And the leaves that accumulate in large numbers not only complicate the work in the garden and add troubles, but also open excellent prospects for creating your own fertilizers.
This month, you can collect basic material for compost, which is enough for the whole next season for fertilizing, soil improvement, and mulching. But composting strategies must be different - depending on the plants you use foliage on.
Foliage of poplar, walnut, plane tree, as well as spruce needles are the most valuable for composting. The leaves of these trees decay slowly, but allow you to get the best quality semi-ripened compost "long-acting". Do not rush to mix the foliage of these crops with household waste and other plant materials: let them rot separately, in personal heaps.
The foliage of all other deciduous trees and shrubs must be composted according to the standard scheme. Lay leaves, small twigs, waste layers or mix the leaves with ready-made compost, garden soil, horn, stone flour or special composting preparations, sprinkle a layer of soil on top, cover the hole with a film and secure it so that rodents do not get inside during the winter .
By spring, you will have ready fully ripened compost, ideal for pre-planting soil improvement.
We begin monitoring the stored bulbs and root tubers
Bulbs and corms dug up for winter from this month should be constantly inspected. At least with a frequency of 2-3 weeks, check the air humidity and temperature in the room where stocks of planting stock are stored, and also examine plants for signs of damage and rot.
Throw out damaged bulbs immediately, ventilate the rooms to lower the air temperature, or place containers with lime that will lower humidity.
If you have not had time to restore order in the seed fund, be sure to set aside a day for inventory. Sort new seeds, sift, put in bags and containers, sign; in old ones, check the expiration dates.
Cleaning comes first
If you want to avoid problems in the spring and maintain the functioning of water supply systems in a normal rhythm, do not forget to carefully check all the mechanisms of irrigation systems in November, remove the deposits and removable mechanisms into the premises, and dry all hoses and pipes.
Pay special attention to the drainage system. Gutters and ditches, drainage systems in November should not only be cleaned, but also dried. Clean the gutters this week every week. By avoiding the accumulation of debris and dirt, you will prevent the destruction of materials and problems with the functioning of drainage systems.
Cleaning will also be needed for greenhouses, greenhouses and greenhouses. This month, heated greenhouses should be aired, if desired, reduce heat transfer and carry out additional work (for example, gluing with bubble wrap), they need to be completed in this month.
In unheated greenhouses and hotbeds, it is necessary to completely complete the glass cleaning and repair work. Interchangeable frames must be carefully inspected during the month, if necessary, repaired, painted or glazed again, then sent for storage to the premises. The soil on the beds in greenhouses before the arrival of winter should be prepared for the next season.
The most labor-intensive November process is the maintenance of the inventory, its cleaning and preparation for wintering. Garden tools, containers, buckets, barrels for rainwater and other water collectors should not be ignored. Be sure to clean all your tools, from secateurs to delimbers and shovels, check working mechanisms and lubricate moving parts.
Wash and clean your inventory, carefully removing dirt and salt deposits from water, if necessary, use special preparations and stiff brushes. After cleaning, dry the containers without leaving a drop of water in them and store them in the room (if the materials from which the water storage tanks are made can be wintered in the garden, put them on supports and protect them from getting wet with a film or canopy).
Pay attention to pest and disease control products, fertilizer and chemicals stocks. Be sure to tightly close the containers with the preparations, place loose fertilizers in airtight containers and store your supplies in a dry, frost-free room.
Do not forget about equipment for ponds. Be sure to remove the pump units from the ponds, clean, dry and store them. Dry all hoses and other system components. If necessary, remove fountains from ponds.
Latest potted and potted
Plants such as hydrangeas, agapanthus, conifers, boxwood, ivy in tubs and pots that are not able to winter in the open air can remain in the garden until the temperature drops to close to 0 ° C. You should not hurry to take them to the premises, but you also do not need to allow freezing.
If you want to extend their garden season, wrap containers with burlap plants or other covering materials, mulch the soil surface, and place the containers themselves on a stand. But if these chores are not for you and you do not want to risk it, then with a drop in temperature to 1-2 degrees, remove the plants in a cold, frost-free room with a temperature of 2 to 6 degrees (with the exception of ivy and boxwood, which prefer to winter at 10-12 degrees heat).
When the frost is over and the temperature rises a little, they can be taken out again and continue quenching. Water the plants very moderately, only maintaining a light moisture of the substrate and preventing excessive moisture. Carefully monitor the condition of crops, timely remove damaged shoots and take measures to combat pests and diseases.
Plants that will winter in the garden need more careful preparation. Warm culture containers using non-woven materials as well as spruce branches and dry leaves, creating several layers of wrappers for reliable protection against frost.
For those who want to grow bulbous and other flowers with their own hands for their favorite winter holidays, it is in November that you should think about planting plants for distillation. Take from your stocks healthy, large bulbs of hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, crocuses or buy new varieties (there are also special bulbs for winter distillation for sale).
The only condition is that the bulbs should be planted for at least 3 weeks before planting, and it is better to cool in 2-4 months at a temperature of 5 to 8 degrees outside the soil.
After planting the bulbs in the pots, place them in a cool or at least not hot and dark place until there are signs of growth, and then transfer to light and begin active watering and top dressing. Bulbs can also be driven out in water - in glass vessels in which the water level is kept constant, several millimeters lower than the bottom of the bulb “stuck” at the top.